Túmulo de John Keats, no cemitério Protestante em Roma

 

Junto à Piazza di Spagna, em Roma, a casa museu de John Keats merece uma visita.

Keats morreu em Roma em Fevereiro de 1821 vítima de tuberculose. O seu túmulo está localizado no cemitério protestante de Roma (também conhecido como Cimiterio Testaccio) junto à pirâmide de Caio Cestio.

Este era um cemitério para quem não era Católico Romano e estava, por isso, localizado distante to centro da cidade e fora da muralha de Roma.

Richard Krauthiemer, autor do brilhante livro “Rome, Profile of a City 312 – 1308” também descansa neste cemitério de Roma.

Inscrição no túmulo de John Keats:

This Grave contains all that was mortal, of a Young English Poet, who on his Death Bed, in the Bitterness of his heart, at the Malicious Power of his enemies, desired these words to be Engraven on his Tomb Stone:
Here lies One Whose Name was writ in Water.

Captive Greece, captivated Rome

Para David Silva – Michelangelo’s inspiration for his David lives in Alverca, Portugal

24 hours in Rome with family

This is meant to be a very quick and high level guide for someone who, for the first time, is going to visit Rome and who has one day only.

Rome is endless. One life is not enough. One day in Rome, however, beats a lifetime in Moscavide, Tallaght or Slough.

Obviously, we are forced to make choices and to leave out of our itinerary some amazing, marvellous, interesting landmarks of Rome.

We are also forced to adjust these suggestions to a family with children. This means, for example, that the Vatican Museum is not in the plan. Amazing as it is, a visit to the Vatican Museum requires a lot of time (a scarce resource) and is not child friendly. Should the Vatican Museum be a “must” and an unavoidable choice, then the itinerary would need to be adjusted.

Please be aware that the Romans are not particularly nice and friendly. You are there, however, to visit Rome and should not allow the Romans’ crankiness spoil it for you.

If there was justice in this world, Rome would be inhabited by Irish people. What we would lose in style, poise and glamour, we would gain in friendliness, happiness and sense of humour.

A few pieces of advice should be considered:

1.       Invest in a guide or a guided tour for the day – Rome is magnificent and even with more time you’re likely to overlook things that you should visit. With just one day, time is of the essence. Someone who can guide you, save you the time of looking at a map and point out for you the main features is priceless

2.       Make sure you do include in your itinerary time to enjoy the city. Rome is not a theme park. Ensure that you allow time for some leisure, for a good meal, for a couple of drinks, for an ice cream, for a cappuccino, to watch the Romans go by, to absorb the atmosphere

3.       Please do some research. Having an idea of Rome’s history and of what you’re looking at will enhance the pleasure you’ll take from this visit.

4.       Be aware of the pickpockets. I find Rome a very safe city, but it is also known for having a good few people who, given a chance, are willing to relieve of the weight of your wallet.

5.       Do not wear shorts. Firstly, and especially if you’re Irish, for aesthetic reasons. Irish people are simply too pale to be allowed showing off any bits and pieces of the body that go beyond your face, arms and hands. Secondly because you may be denied access to some churches like St. Peter’s basilica.

Start the day at St. Peter’s Basilica. The earlier the better. People, generally speaking, are a nuisance and that’s even more valid when they spoil the atmosphere of St. Peter’s and when they increase the queues to go through the security check.

Some of the obvious highlights include the Pietà by Michelangelo, the baldacchino by Bernini, Cappella del Santissimo Sacramento, St Peter’s Chair, Urban VIII’s monument and Alexander VII’s monument both by Bernini, Statue of St Pieter by Arnolfo di Cambio (if you’re allowed to rub the statue’s foot do not forget to ask for Benfica’s victory of the Portuguese league) and the statues at the crossing of the transept.

Wander through the basilica and enjoy. When done follow the signs to the Papal tombs and visit the tombs of some of the Popes buried in Rome (including John Paul II).

Leave the basilica and take some time to observe the Piazza San Pietro designed by Bernini.

Resist the temptation of eating around the Vatican. With very few exceptions, you will more than likely be overcharged.

Walk down via della Conciliazone towards Castel Sant’Angelo (or Hadrian’s mausoleum) and cross the Tiber using Ponte Sant’Angelo (Bernini again).

Continue walking through the narrow streets towards Piazza Navona. Admire the fountains and in particular the Fountain of the Rivers (Bernini yet again) and the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone by Borromini.

This is also a nice place to sit down, stop for a few minutes and allow the children to run around.

Very close to Piazza Navona you’ll have a few interesting things to see. Across from the Corso Vittorio Emanuele you have Campo di Fiori with a very interesting and colourful street market and Giordano Bruno’s statue.

Very close to the opposite end of Piazza Navona you also have the church of Sant’Agostino with Raphael’s fresco of the prophet Isaiah and Caravaggio’s Madonna di Loreto.

Just around the corner from the middle entrance to Piazza Navona you also have the church of San Luigi dei Francesi where you’ll be able to admire Caravaggio’s masterpieces “The Calling of St. Mathew”, “The Martyrdom of St Mathew” and “the inspiration of St Mathew”.

In relation to visits to churches please keep in mind that most close for lunch time (usually from 12.30 to 3.30).

And you also have The Pantheon which is one of the absolute highlights of Rome.

Speaking of highlights… also very close to Piazza Navona, in vicolo Savelli, you can have one of the best pizzas in Rome in pizzeria Montecarlo. I strongly suggest pizza Montecarlo and the bruschettas, but they also serve very good pasta.

This pizzeria closes on Mondays and is usually very busy so it is important to time your lunch in order to get there early enough also considering that you’ll want to pick a good table to accommodate the children.

The only issue I have with pizzeria Montecarlo is that they do not serve coffee. However, in order to enjoy one their superb pizzas I am prepared to ignore this otherwise serious handicap and just have my coffee in any place around the corner.

So depending of the time you arrive at Piazza Navona, I suggest you squeeze some of the above suggestions before lunch time and then go for lunch and relax.

Quick note: Not far from Piazza Navona (perhaps a 5 to 10 minute walk) you also have la via dei Portoghesi and the church of Sant’Antonio dei Portoghesi. It isn’t a major attraction especially if you have serious time constraints, but it might be of interest to some Portuguese when visiting Rome and it is a very nice church run by very friendly people.

In the afternoon it is time to walk to the famous Fontana di Trevi. Despite being always very busy during the day, once you’re so close to one of the most famous landmarks of Rome it would be a shame to miss it. From piazza Navona and with children it will probably take you 10 to 15 minutes on a leisurely walk.

From Fontana di Trevi I suggest you take the direction of Piazza di Spagna. It isn’t far, but it is a bit of a climb. So, if you do not fancy the walk, you may want to consider taking a taxi to save yourself the time and the energy. Obviously, you'll miss one more opportunity to walk the streets of Rome...

The Spanish steps are also a very famous landmark of Rome and I guess it is worthwhile seeing it if it is your first time in Rome. Also admire the fountain by Bernini (the father) Fontana della Barcaccia. If you had more time you could visit Keats and Shelley Museum or the church of Trinità dei Monti and it is also the lack of time your perfect excuse to discourage your wife from visiting some of the most fashionable shops in Rome in via dei Condotti.

At this point I am guessing that it is mid-afternoon and that you’re getting tired and that your children, whose cooperation has probably been bought with ice creams, are probably getting a bit cranky and so the last thing you want is to submit them to another walk.

My suggestion is, therefore, to hop on a taxi (they are very well identified) and go to the Coliseum. Remember: you must not leave Rome without going to the Coliseum.

It is an impressive sight from the outside, but I would recommend going on a guided tour of the inside.

Next to the Coliseum you also have the arch of Constantine and this is when your prior research and guidebook come in handy so that you can admire it.

Should you, at this point in time, have some energy and time left, then I would suggest a few possible scenarios:

a)      Walk through the Roman Forum, have a real taste of classical Rome, walk the Via Sacra towards the Capitoline (the children can run wild) and pretend you are an emperor coming from an triumph against the barbarians

b)      Walk the via dei Fori Imperiali to the Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II and go around the corner to Piazza di Campidoglio designed by Michelangelo (and admire the statue of Marcus Aurelius and perhaps visit the amazing Capitoline Museum where you have the famous she wolf and where you have access to an outstanding view over the Roman Forum)

c)       Go to San Pietro in Vincoli (I believe that the church does not close until 6pm during the Winter and maybe 7pm during the spring and Summer) and admire the relic of the chain that bound St Peter when he was imprisoned in Jerusalem and in Rome (Mamertine Prison) and the impressive statue of Moses by Michelangelo

For food near the Coliseum, one possible option is Trattoria Luzzi in via di San Giovanni in Laterano. It is closed on Wednesday (I think), but it is very reasonably priced, the food is good and it has some character. Word of advice: I would not trust any other restaurant close to the Coliseum.

And your day is ending… I hope you have enjoyed the one day visit to Rome and that you, at the very least, have the will to return and to learn more about this fantastic city.

Rome in literature

“I, Tiberius Claudius Drusus Nero Germanicus This-that-and-the-other (for I shall not trouble you yet with all my titles), who was once, and not so long ago either, known to my friends and relatives and associates as “Claudius the Idiot” or “That Claudius”, or “Claudius the Stammerer”, or “Clau-Clau-Claudius”, or at best as “Poor Uncle Claudius”, am now about to write this strange history of my life;”

“I, Claudius” by Robert Graves

Testículos, pequenas testemunhas

O novo e o antigo testamentos da bíblia supostamente validam a vontade de Deus. Essa validação vem em forma de testemunho de quem supostamente viu, sentiu, escutou a palavra e a presença de Deus.

A origem da palavra testamento parece vir do latim testis para testemunha e é a raiz de algumas palavras interessantes.

Temos, por exemplo, detestar que literalmente significaria denunciar alguém com o nosso testemunho, temos contestar para testemunhar com ou trazer para acção alguém com conjunto com o nosso testemunho, temos protestar para testemunhar publicamente em favor de ou testemunhar antes de.

Temos ainda testículo. Testículo vem do latim testiculu e significa pequena testemunha.

Há várias teorias para explicar de onde vem a ligação de testículo a testemunha. Os testículos seriam evidência ou testemunha da virilidade do homem.

Desconhece-se com precisão como eram feitos os juramentos na antiguidade, mas tudo indica que não seriam efectuados com a mão junto ao coração.

Uma teoria indica que no passado as testemunhas fariam o seu juramento ou dariam a sua garantia com a mão nos testículos. Outra teoria aponta no sentido de que os juramentos das testemunhas fossem efectuado com a mão nos testículos da pessoa a quem (ou perante quem) estavam a jurar... Façamos uma pausa para imaginar como seria se esta prática se mantivess até aos nossos dias...

Na idade média surgiu a lenda da Papisa Joana de acordo com a qual uma mulher de grande erudição e disfarçada de homem teria ganho tal notariedade nas ordens eclesiásticas ao ponto de ser eleita Papa.

Sedia Stercoraria

A história não acabou nada bem já que, estando grávida, durante uma procissão em Roma com percurso da basílica de S. Pedro para a basílica de S. João Latrão, perto da igreja de São Clemente, a Papisa terá entrado em trabalho de parto. A populaça que assistia à procissão, horrorizada e muito pouco compreensiva e preparada para este tipo de evento, terá atado os pés da Papisa a um cavalo que a arrastou pelas ruas da cidade culminando num apredejamento até à morte.

Uma morte muito pouco simpática, mas que terá servido como forte aviso para outras mulheres com intenções similares.

Desta lenda – aliás, desprovida de verdade – ficou uma outra prática também lendária.

Na eleição dos Papas e para evitar mais episódios como o da Papisa Joana, o eleito sentar-se-ia numa cadeira com uma abertura na base – sedia stercoraria, literalmente cadeira do excremento - que permitiria a que um subalterno judicioso, dedicado e, sem dúvida, com grande sentido de carreira com a sua mão comprovasse tratar-se de um homem.

Uma vez mais, os testículos servindo de testemunha. Habemus Papam.



Comprovação táctil da virilidade do Papa
Testículos servindo de testemunha



Rome in literature

“Cowards die many times before their deaths;

The valiant never taste of death but once.

Of all the wanders that I yet have heard,

It seems to me most strange that men should fear,

Seeing that death, a necessary end,

Will come when it will come.”

Julius Caesar, by William Shakespeare



As pontes de Roma e fazer ponte em Portugal

 Roma é também uma cidade de pontes.

Uma delas é a Ponte Fabricio (também conhecida pela Ponte dei Quattro Capi por ter por dois Janus de quatro cabeças) que é a mais antiga ponte de Roma e que, quase inalterada desde 62 a.C., permanece uma firme sobrivente à fúria pretérita do rio Tibre.

Janus era o deus romano dos começos e das transições, das entradas, das portas, das pontes, dos fins e do tempo quer em termos físicos quer em termos metafóricos e simbólicos.

De Janus obtemos, por exemplo, janela e Janeiro (o mês de calendário e mesmo o meu amigo Paulo agora residente em terras francesas e, sem dúvida, descendente de um deus clássico).

Esta ponte liga o antigo gueto judeu à ilha Tiberina onde podemos encontrar a igreja de San Bartolomeu que ocupa o lugar do antigo templo dedicado a Esculápio, deus grego da Medicina.
Do outro lado da ilha temos a travessia para o Trasteve e o bairro bairro tradicional dos judeus em Roma.



Ponte Fabricio, ou Ponte Quattro Capi, Roma

 Uma outra ponte famosa é a Ponte de Sant’ Angelo com as fabulosas esculturas de Bernini (na verdade, são réplicas) representando os símbolos da paixão de Cristo.

Ponte Sant' Angelo, em Roma, com estátuas de Bernini
e Castel Sant'Angelo ou Mausoléu do Imperador Adriano

Ponte Sant' Angelo, Roma

Durante séculos esta seria a principal via seguida por peregrinos vindo de toda a Europa para chegar à basílica de S. Pedro. Em 590, o Papa Gregório I, o Grande, (o tal que dá o nome ao canto Gregoriano) vindo em peregrinação a São Pedro implorando o fim da peste que assolava Roma, ao chegar à ponte terá tido uma visão do arcanjo São Miguel embainhando a sua espada e assim dando sinal do fim da peste. Este episódio dá o nome à ponte e ao Castel Sant’Angelo e antigo mausoléu do imperador Adriano.

A construção de pontes em Roma era um cargo de grande importância presume-se desde a era Etrusca. Era tarefa tecnicamente complicada e de grande responsabilidade. As pontes eram decisivas na expansão e defesa do território, no desenvolvimento económico, no resultado de batalhas e tinham também uma grande variedade de conotações simbólicas.
Este cargo tinha a denominação de pontifex (presume-se que de pons = ponte e fex = raiz de facere, fazer) e foi adoptado por os mais altos sacerdotes e governantes romanos (por exemplo, imperadores de cônsules adoptaram também este título) e passou a ser pontifex maximus. Ainda hoje o Papa tem o título de sumo pontífice e temos a palavra pontificado.

Não se entende, portanto, a recente obsessão de acabar com as pontes em Portugal. É evidente que a prática de fazer ponte junto a um feriado aproximava, em termos simbólicos, muitos Portugueses da Roma clássica e até do Papa Sumo Pontífice. Quanto mais não seja em termos etimológicos... era sinónimo de civilização avançada e erudição clássica.