Monday, 12 March 2012


Para David Silva – Michelangelo’s inspiration for his David lives in Alverca, Portugal

24 hours in Rome with family

This is meant to be a very quick and high level guide for someone who, for the first time, is going to visit Rome and who has one day only.

Rome is endless. One life is not enough. One day in Rome, however, beats a lifetime in Moscavide, Tallaght or Slough.

Obviously, we are forced to make choices and to leave out of our itinerary some amazing, marvellous, interesting landmarks of Rome.
We are also forced to adjust these suggestions to a family with children. This means, for example, that the Vatican Museum is not in the plan. Amazing as it is, a visit to the Vatican Museum requires a lot of time (a scarce resource) and is not child friendly. Should the Vatican Museum be a “must” and an unavoidable choice, then the itinerary would need to be adjusted.

Please be aware that the Romans are not particularly nice and friendly. You are there, however, to visit Rome and should not allow the Romans’ crankiness spoil it for you.

If there was justice in this world, Rome would be inhabited by Irish people. What we would lose in style, poise and glamour, we would gain in friendliness, happiness and sense of humour.

A few pieces of advice should be considered:

1.       Invest in a guide or a guided tour for the day – Rome is magnificent and even with more time you’re likely to overlook things that you should visit. With just one day, time is of the essence. Someone who can guide you, save you the time of looking at a map and point out for you the main features is priceless

2.       Make sure you do include in your itinerary time to enjoy the city. Rome is not a theme park. Ensure that you allow time for some leisure, for a good meal, for a couple of drinks, for an ice cream, for a cappuccino, to watch the Romans go by, to absorb the atmosphere

3.       Please do some research. Having an idea of Rome’s history and of what you’re looking at will enhance the pleasure you’ll take from this visit.

4.       Be aware of the pickpockets. I find Rome a very safe city, but it is also known for having a good few people who, given a chance, are willing to relieve of the weight of your wallet.

5.       Do not wear shorts. Firstly, and especially if you’re Irish, for aesthetic reasons. Irish people are simply too pale to be allowed showing off any bits and pieces of the body that go beyond your face, arms and hands. Secondly because you may be denied access to some churches like St. Peter’s basilica.

Start the day at St. Peter’s Basilica. The earlier the better. People, generally speaking, are a nuisance and that’s even more valid when they spoil the atmosphere of St. Peter’s and when they increase the queues to go through the security check.

Some of the obvious highlights include the Pietà by Michelangelo, the baldacchino by Bernini, Cappella del Santissimo Sacramento, St Peter’s Chair, Urban VIII’s monument and Alexander VII’s monument both by Bernini, Statue of St Pieter by Arnolfo di Cambio (if you’re allowed to rub the statue’s foot do not forget to ask for Benfica’s victory of the Portuguese league) and the statues at the crossing of the transept.

Wander through the basilica and enjoy. When done follow the signs to the Papal tombs and visit the tombs of some of the Popes buried in Rome (including John Paul II).
Leave the basilica and take some time to observe the Piazza San Pietro designed by Bernini.

Resist the temptation of eating around the Vatican. With very few exceptions, you will more than likely be overcharged.

Walk down via della Conciliazone towards Castel Sant’Angelo (or Hadrian’s mausoleum) and cross the Tiber using Ponte Sant’Angelo (Bernini again).

Continue walking through the narrow streets towards Piazza Navona. Admire the fountains and in particular the Fountain of the Rivers (Bernini yet again) and the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone by Borromini.
This is also a nice place to sit down, stop for a few minutes and allow the children to run around.

Very close to Piazza Navona you’ll have a few interesting things to see. Across from the Corso Vittorio Emanuele you have Campo di Fiori with a very interesting and colourful street market and Giordano Bruno’s statue.

Very close to the opposite end of Piazza Navona you also have the church of Sant’Agostino with Raphael’s fresco of the prophet Isaiah and Caravaggio’s Madonna di Loreto.

Just around the corner from the middle entrance to Piazza Navona you also have the church of San Luigi dei Francesi where you’ll be able to admire Caravaggio’s masterpieces “The Calling of St. Mathew”, “The Martyrdom of St Mathew” and “the inspiration of St Mathew”.

In relation to visits to churches please keep in mind that most close for lunch time (usually from 12.30 to 3.30).

And you also have The Pantheon which is one of the absolute highlights of Rome.

Speaking of highlights… also very close to Piazza Navona, in vicolo Savelli, you can have one of the best pizzas in Rome in pizzeria Montecarlo. I strongly suggest pizza Montecarlo and the bruschettas, but they also serve very good pasta.

This pizzeria closes on Mondays and is usually very busy so it is important to time your lunch in order to get there early enough also considering that you’ll want to pick a good table to accommodate the children.

The only issue I have with pizzeria Montecarlo is that they do not serve coffee. However, in order to enjoy one their superb pizzas I am prepared to ignore this otherwise serious handicap and just have my coffee in any place around the corner.

So depending of the time you arrive at Piazza Navona, I suggest you squeeze some of the above suggestions before lunch time and then go for lunch and relax.

Quick note: Not far from Piazza Navona (perhaps a 5 to 10 minute walk) you also have la via dei Portoghesi and the church of Sant’Antonio dei Portoghesi. It isn’t a major attraction especially if you have serious time constraints, but it might be of interest to some Portuguese when visiting Rome and it is a very nice church run by very friendly people.

In the afternoon it is time to walk to the famous Fontana di Trevi. Despite being always very busy during the day, once you’re so close to one of the most famous landmarks of Rome it would be a shame to miss it. From piazza Navona and with children it will probably take you 10 to 15 minutes on a leisurely walk.

From Fontana di Trevi I suggest you take the direction of Piazza di Spagna. It isn’t far, but it is a bit of a climb. So, if you do not fancy the walk, you may want to consider taking a taxi to save yourself the time and the energy. Obviously, you'll miss one more opportunity to walk the streets of Rome...

The Spanish steps are also a very famous landmark of Rome and I guess it is worthwhile seeing it if it is your first time in Rome. Also admire the fountain by Bernini (the father) Fontana della Barcaccia. If you had more time you could visit Keats and Shelley Museum or the church of Trinità dei Monti and it is also the lack of time your perfect excuse to discourage your wife from visiting some of the most fashionable shops in Rome in via dei Condotti.

At this point I am guessing that it is mid-afternoon and that you’re getting tired and that your children, whose cooperation has probably been bought with ice creams, are probably getting a bit cranky and so the last thing you want is to submit them to another walk.

My suggestion is, therefore, to hop on a taxi (they are very well identified) and go to the Coliseum. Remember: you must not leave Rome without going to the Coliseum.

It is an impressive sight from the outside, but I would recommend going on a guided tour of the inside.

Next to the Coliseum you also have the arch of Constantine and this is when your prior research and guidebook come in handy so that you can admire it.

Should you, at this point in time, have some energy and time left, then I would suggest a few possible scenarios:

a)      Walk through the Roman Forum, have a real taste of classical Rome, walk the Via Sacra towards the Capitoline (the children can run wild) and pretend you are an emperor coming from an triumph against the barbarians

b)      Walk the via dei Fori Imperiali to the Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II and go around the corner to Piazza di Campidoglio designed by Michelangelo (and admire the statue of Marcus Aurelius and perhaps visit the amazing Capitoline Museum where you have the famous she wolf and where you have access to an outstanding view over the Roman Forum)

c)       Go to San Pietro in Vincoli (I believe that the church does not close until 6pm during the Winter and maybe 7pm during the spring and Summer) and admire the relic of the chain that bound St Peter when he was imprisoned in Jerusalem and in Rome (Mamertine Prison) and the impressive statue of Moses by Michelangelo


For food near the Coliseum, one possible option is Trattoria Luzzi in via di San Giovanni in Laterano. It is closed on Wednesday (I think), but it is very reasonably priced, the food is good and it has some character. Word of advice: I would not trust any other restaurant close to the Coliseum.

And your day is ending… I hope you have enjoyed the one day visit to Rome and that you, at the very least, have the will to return and to learn more about this fantastic city.


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